Thursday, May 26, 2011

THE MOUND TO ETERNITY


THE MOUND TO ETERNITY



The spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens are in Jongmyo Shrine, but their tombs are scattered all around Seoul. These tombs are decorated elaborately but mostly underground to protect them from theft and desecration. During the Kingdom years, regular ceremonies to remember and honor the dead were held on these spots. Today, these sites stand for the glorious past and the blissful present of the Republic of Korea.

    King Seongjong was the second son of Crown Prince Uigyeong, King Sejo’s first son. He reigned from 1469–94. He was only 13 years old when he ascended the throne. As a prolific writer and statesman, he promulgated the Grand Code of State Administration in 1485. The Expanded National Code (1492) was also issued and it perfected the laws and institutions of the state. Together with these achievements he stabilized the authority of the throne by engaging Neo-confucian literati to check the meritorious elites who wielded immense power at that time. He fathered 28 children by 12 wives and concubines. It is said that King Seongjong died in Changdeok Palace.

    Approaching the burial grounds tourists, will be greeted by a red gate (the red colour denoting holiness) with a taegeuk (yin-yang) symbol. The stone paths leading to the sacrificial building are noteworthy because there are two stone paths—the elevated path is for the dead King and the lower one is for living people. In the past, the memorial rites were performed in a sacrificial building but right now, rights in honor of the dead were carried right in offering tables.

    Small sculptures on the eaves called Japsang were carved in the shape of animals such as monkeys and were believed to exorcise evil spirits. The statuary includes human and animal guardians – some of the latter look like sheep. The stone lanterns are to guide the king’s spirit home and the stone figures serves as eternal servicemen loyal to the throne. Sculptures of sheep and tigers surround the tomb and are guardians of the dead King. There is also a statue of a military officer bearing a sword. In front of the tomb is an outstanding sight called the 'Mangjuseok,' which is a pair of stones designed to guide the dead King to his tomb.
    A short walk will lead you to the second tomb, that of King Seongjong’s second wife, Queen Jeonghyeon Wanghu. Along the path, are arrays of wild flowers that blooms in various colors like violet, orange, yellow and red. During the autumn season, a sea of colors will welcome you as the leaves fall and the sun reflects on an assortment of palette which will leave an awe inspring feeling to each and every visitors. Unlike the tombs of the Kings, the queen’s tomb, Wanghureung, is simple. It has no pavilions or sacrificial buildingsand is surrounded by only stone sculptures as guardians.
    The woodland paths will lead you to the tomb of King Seongjong and Queen Jeonghyeon’s second son, King Jeongjong (reigned 1506–44). The burial complex was surrounded with pine and ginkgo trees. Until his death in 1544, he worked hard to correct the mistakes of the imperial system and installed new political figures. At this tomb, you can see the full layout – the gateway and the double pathway to the pavilion where memorial rites were carried out.Seonjeongneung has a lush forest and benches on the promenade which is an ideal place to relax. The numerous small hills with clusters of trees create a border between the mystery and serenity of the royal tombs and the hustle and bustle of downtown Seoul.

Located at the heart of Gangnam, this place offers tranquil and pleasant promenades for couples and office workers.
Directions: From subway Exit 8 walk straight ahead for 500m and the entrance is on the right. Seonjeongneung comprises of the Seolleung Royal Tomb (선릉) and the Jeongneung Royal Tomb (정릉). 

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